Category: Projects

  • Using a PICKit 3 clone to program a PIC12F629 chip

    Using a PICKit 3 clone to program a PIC12F629 chip

    While putting together some custom SNES PCBs from Nick at MouseBiteLabs, the carts required a PIC12F629 chip to bypass Nintendo’s copy protection using the community-built SuperCIC “key” code.

    Maybe I should have ordered pre-programmed chips from the seller, but instead I decided to make things more difficult interesting and get a “PICKit” programmer clone from our friend AliExpress.

    PICKit clone labelled “kit 3.5” with 40-pin programmer socket adapter and cables.

    If you want your own clone programmer, search for “PICKit 3.5 programmer” on AliExpress and purchase from a seller that’s sold 100+ units. I got mine for $15, plus $7 shipping to Canada.

    As an aside, the original PICkit programmer/debugger is a device produced by the company Microchip. Their latest revision is the PICkit 5, but older versions work perfectly for our needs. And, since the original version 3 has been discontinued, the best way to get one is to buy a clone from AliExpress.

    Download the assets

    First, download the required software and payloads.

    Configure the socket adapter

    Next, configure your socket adapter based on the instructions printed on the bottom of the adapter board. The PIC12F629 is a DIP8 package (i.e. 8 pins), so we will use those settings.

    Adapter socket jumper configuration printed on the bottom of the adapter PCB.

    This can be a little hard to read, but it says:

    • Set Jumper 1 to “2” (bridging the middle 2 pins)
    • Set Jumpers 2-7 to the “2-3” setting (bridging pins 2 & 3 for each group).

    When properly configured and chip inserted, the adapter should look like the following image:

    Jumper configuration for programming PIC12F629 and other DIP8/14/18/20 PIC chips.

    Below is the pinout for the PICkit programmer tool, in case you don’t have an adapter handy. (source)

    Below shows how to connect the PIC12F629 chip directly to the headers of the PICkit.

    PICkit  -> PIC12F629
    1 (Vpp) -> Pin 4
    2 (Vdd) -> Pin 1
    3 (Vss) -> Pin 8
    4 (ISCPDAT) -> Pin 7
    5 (ISCPCLK) -> Pin 6
    6 (LVP/Aux) Not used.

    Programming the PIC12F629 chip

    Plug your PICkit programmer into your computer via USB and let Windows set up the new device (if necessary). You’ll hear the familiar “hardware connected” sound when it’s done.

    Install / run the PICkitminus software.

    Screenshot of the PICkitminus software used to program the PIC chips.

    Click File -> Import hex and select the supercic-key_p12f629.hex file that you extracted earlier.

    Ensure that the VDD setting is 4.5. If you forget, the programmer should warn you of the incorrect value.

    Click the Write button. You should see “Programming Successful” in the debugging output.

    You can click the verify button to ensure the write was successful.

    That’s it! Your PIC chip should now be programmed and ready for use.

    Troubleshooting

    If you have trouble with the PICkitminus app detecting the programmer, try reconnecting the USB cable and click Tools -> Check communication from the app menu.

    If you continue to have trouble connecting to your PICKit programmer, you may need to install the MPLAB X IDE software first. At time of writing, the IDE software version is v6.20.

    Wrapping up

    Props to Nick from MouseBiteLabs for the T48 programming guide, and for the open-source SNES carts he’s made available to the community.

    Also huge kudos to jaka-fi for keeping PICkitminus updated.

  • Adding a Power LED to the Weller WE1010 NA Soldering Iron

    Adding a Power LED to the Weller WE1010 NA Soldering Iron

    A few years ago I got this Weller WE1010 NA desktop soldering iron for around $100 CAD. The iron has worked well for me, and fits great on my hobby desk, but it has a major flaw: it does not auto power-off.

    The iron does reduce temperature if left idle for a period of time — e.g. I typically run the iron at 330º Celsius, and it will lower the temperature to about 180º when idle — but it will never turn itself off, no matter how many hours you’ve left it sitting on your desk untouched. Huge waste of power and a potential fire/burn hazard.

    Official product image for Weller 1010 NA soldering iron.
    Weller 1010 NA soldering iron official product image. No power LED or backlight display. Booo!

    The base station of the iron does have a LCD to display the current temperature, but it does not have a backlight so you can’t see it from across the room.

    Because of this, I am constantly forgetting to turn it off when I’m done with a project.

    Well, not any more!

    I added a red LED power indicator light to my WE1010 after watching videos from Adapting Camera and Tek Tech on YouTube. If you want to try this mod, I suggest watching their videos!

    Weller WE 1010NA Soldering Station with added LED power light
    Weller WE 1010NA Soldering Station with added LED power light

    Looking inside, it is evident that the WE1010 is definitely built on a budget. I added the kapton tape and clear heat shrink tube to the plugs so there is some basic short-circuit protection. Honestly, I can’t believe none of the connections were protected!

    Unfortunately I didn’t get a good photo of the LED installed on the front-plate, but you can see the newly soldered wires running from the PCB to the LED.

    My method of installing the LED was very similar to the approach shown in the video from Tek Tech.

    I’ve had the LED installed for a few months now and it has been working great. The LED is bright enough that I cannot possibly overlook it, especially at night when I turn off the lights in the room.

    Would I do this LED mod again? Absolutely! Honestly, a power indicator LED or LCD backlight is sorely missing from this unit.

    That said, would I buy a WE 1010 again? Absolutely not!

    This iron cost me something like $100 CAD a few years ago, but it’s going for $170 CAD now. It is definitely not worth $170. Maybe you can find it on sale for half-price, otherwise I would look into better alternatives on the market.

    Here are a couple of alternative soldering irons:

    • Pinecil from Pine64 for $25USD – These are fantastic USB-C powered soldering irons which use TS100/ST/PTS200 tips. There are mixed reviews online since newer alternatives have become available, but I’ve has a Pinecil for a few years and it works great for me!
    • FNIRSI HS-02 and Alientek T80 for around $20-30 USD – Both use C245 tips which are bigger and more robust than the Pinecil. They also seem to accept the Pinecil tips, so these might be a viable replacement or second iron! Shop for these on AliExpress for the best prices.

    I hope you found this interesting or helpful! Thanks for reading.